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Monday, June 17, 2013

Temples of Kerala: Shree Vaidyanatha Temple, Kannur

After around a 20 minute drive further from Shree Krishna Trichambaram temple, we arrive at the next temple in our temple trail of Kannur in Kerala: The Vaidyanatha temple.

Located at Kanhirangad, 6 kms from Taliparamba and revered as one amongst the 108 ancient Shiva temples of Kerala, stepping in the temple is like stepping back in time.

A flight of stony stairs running through an unkempt plantation, the simply structured temple looking from over from the top and absence of any sign of human life – when you witness scenes like these, it becomes that much more easier to believe what the legends say...

Way to the Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
Way to the Shree Vaidyanatha Temple

This place once served as the hiding abode of Karaskarasura, the demon child of Bhasmasura. One day when sage Parsuram was passing by the forest, he came across the demon and both had an encounter. In the skirmish, Karaskarasura got killed and the sage found a shivlingam in a fountain of the courtyard. On inquiring more about the beautiful looking shivlingam from the sage Narada, He came to know of its powerful healing abilities and how its worship had once cured the leprosy struck Aditya (Sun God) relieving Him of his illness. This prompted him to install that lingam for the betterment of the whole of mankind, in the same place that we call the Vaidyanatha temple today – the temple with magical healing powers.

A series of steps take you to the main temple resting gently on a hilltop. Passing through the structure of the main gate gives a feeling of having entered the doors of any simple house and that is where, I believe, this temple’s prime beauty lies - in its sheer simplicity and minimalist appeal. The gates open in a spacious compound where a large deepam (lamp) burns bright to the left.

Deepam inside the Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
A deepam burns bright inside the temple

I see pilgrims hurry to make their way to the sanctum as it’s time for the evening arti (prayer). We follow suit and soon, the main temple hall is filled with rhythmic sounds of temple bells, chants and hymns. What I can’t get my eyes off from though, are the lights in the sanctum... emanating from the multitude of deepams thereby arresting the dark of the sanctum in its brilliant dazzle and revealing the deity in all its radiance. The temple is small in size but the Lord is clearly visible, devotees are less in number hence the noise is at a minimum: all these elements together constitute for a beautiful experience, one that permeates the chambers of the heart once we close our eyes in prayer and bow our head in reverence. The bliss of warmth and prayers ends with a few Tulsi leaves and some ash which is distributed as prasadam.

The Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
The inside of the Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
The Vaidyanatha Temple compound

The circumambulation path reveals more - murals and paintings dating back decades and centuries. The antiquity is appealing and the craftsmanship interesting yet what brings people to this temple is their immense faith in the temple’s mystical remedial abilities. Be it the Ksheeradhara (pouring of milk on the lingam), the Jaladhara (pouring of water on the lingam), the temple well or the Shivlingam itself, the temple is believed to be abundant in features that have magical healing powers. That is also how the temple deity comes to be revered as the Vaidyanatha, the Master of medicines and healing. 

As I make my way down the very steps that had taken me up, I cannot help but think of the place as a modern (and effective?) therapeutic center for all those who believe... One where strong faith and resolute endurance is all that is asked for in the name of a fee and the ones who are willing to pay it...

... are the ones who return blessed.


Traveler tips and other information:

Bhagawathy, Ayyappan and Ganapathy are the other deities in the temple.

Festivals: Shivratri is the main festival which is in the month of Kumbam (February/March). Another auspicious occasion is the Aaru Nhayar (Sunday that falls on the 6th day of any Malayalam month). Besides this, prayers offered on any Sunday in general are also considered to be auspicious in nature as the deity was consecrated on a Sunday.

Dress code: Mundu is the dress code to be followed by Men.

Remember to: Plan your visit such that you include the Taliparamba Sree Raja Rajeswara Shiva temple (next temple post) and the Trichambaram Sri Krishna Temple along with the Vaidyanatha Temple in your temple trail – all the three constitute the local holy trinity of temples held in high regard and are administered by a single cohesive authority, Thaliparambu-Trichambaram-Kanhirangad Devasom.

Photography: Is prohibited inside the main temple

Related post from the archives -

Monday, June 10, 2013

Temples of Kerala: Trichambaram Shree Krishna Temple, Kannur

Around 20 km from the town of Kannur in Kerala, 5 kms south of Taliparambu town and a short drive of around 15 minutes from Shree Muthappan Temple, is situated the Trichambaram temple.

Entrance to Trichambaram Krishna temple, Kannur- Kerala
Trichambaram Shri Krishna temple, Kannur- Kerala
Entrance to the Trichambaram Temple compound

Descend a fleet of stairs and you are led to the temple compound in the center of which stands the main temple. Dedicated to Lord Shree Krishna in his child avatar, the Trichambaram temple, like majority of temples in Kerala, exudes a high degree of calm and serenity the moment you enter its blissful shade.

Trichambaram temple, Kannur- Kerala
A pair of weighing scales in the temple compound

Gopuram of Trichambaram temple, Kannur- Kerala
The main Trichambaram temple

Long strings of Tulsi malas and scores of non lit deepams line the way to the sanctum sanctorum. The sanctum is bright intensely lit up with a multitude of deepams all around and the Lord seated comfortably in the center. A huge bell hangs at the outside but the priest discourages me to ring it the moment he sees me lifting my hand towards it. I am a bit surprised but soon reason it for myself: Peace here is left to be just that... peace – untouched and undisturbed.

Trichambaram Krishna temple, Kannur- Kerala
Trichambaram temple from the outside

The aura of the flickering lights emanating from inside the sanctum works magic with the peace spread all around. And one has to take it in before moving forward to the circumambulation path which reveals the antiquity of the temple in all its glory. The outsides of the sanctum walls flourish in ancient paintings depicting various leelas of Lord Shri Krishna and dating back to the 15th century, a compelling reassurance of the rich historical value of the temple.

Outside, in the shadows of the main temple stands another shrine encircled by a small pond and dedicated to Goddess Durga.


Durga temple, Trichambaram, Kannur- Kerala
Goddess Durga temple in the compound

Besides this shrine is a second pond, a great place to spend a few minutes in contemplation along with a grazing cow before finally making my way out of the temple.

Pond at Trichambaram temple, Kannur- Kerala
A cow happily grazing near the temple pond

Traveler tips and Information:

Dress code: Mundu (
white cloth or cream cloth attire also called as Veshti in Tamil) is a mandatory clothing for men who wish to enter the temple. Though it is advisable to carry it with you but in case you don’t, it can be brought from a shop inside the temple. (Tip: Shop remains closed from 12 – 5 in the afternoon.)

Photography: is prohibited inside.

Festival: The annual festival of the temple is the Trichambaram Mahotsavam, a vivid occasion usually held in the months February/March.
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