‘Chadai ka asli aanand to chal ke jaane me hi hai… lekin rickshaw bhi jaata hai (The real joy of the climb is to walk all the distance... but rickshaws can also take you there)’, says our rickshaw driver as he drives us through the busy traffic of Mumbai from the Vasai station to the base of the Tungareshwar hills (Sadanand Ashram), the start point for our journey. From here, a 3 km climb uphill would take us to our destination - A 100 yr old temple which can either be covered by private vehicle, rickshaws or on foot.
Sadanand Ashram
Dating a complete decade back in time, the Tungareshwar temple quietly sits atop one of the highest mountain plateau in the Vasai region of Mumbai – the Tungareshwar hills - at an altitude of 2177 ft. in a small patch of peace and quiet.
We heed to our rickshaw wallah’s advice, let out a call of ‘Bum Bum Bhole’ and start our Tungareshwar yatra... on foot.
Rice field plantations by the villagers of the area, at the base of the hills
The moment we
step on the muddy tracks of the hills leading to our destination, all
the busy noise and honking of the traffic outside is lost. The place is
tranquil and silent; it’s a world isolated; a world unto itself. There
is not a single soul in picture. It comes as a surprise (and delight!) as
the temple especially boasts of a good crowd during the sacred Shiva month of Shravan (July - August) and the festival of Shivratri (Feb-March). Early morning of a weekend perhaps, we reason out.
Goat - Our lone companion in the initial stages of the climb
The irregular tracks are canopied by huge trees and lined with dense vegetation on either side.
Walking under the umbrella of nature
Overhead
is the window... our only window to the outside world - An overcast
grey sky seen through the tiny gaps in the canopied panes that nature
has left open for us.
Overcast weather
A few minutes into the climb, and we realize that quietude is an unofficial rule followed here, by everyone. So, the leaves don’t rustle and the birds, barring a few occasional chirps, mostly keep to themselves.
Hear the silence speak!
Even the two shallow streams and two miniature waterfalls that we come across are mellowed in nature. I later learn that one of them is the famous Tungareshwar waterfall which is also a very famous picnic spot. The waters in mixed shades of green, brown and white makes its way down quietly yet animatedly as if taking pride of having the eternal bliss to continually flow by the feet of the Lord.
Top:One of the streams; Below:Tungareshwar Waterfall
... I stand mesmerized ...
Somewhere mid way, we finally sense activity – A lone shop selling tea and snacks, a rick trudging down the mountain, a motorcycle bumpily moving up and a few devotees treading on foot, in groups of two or four.
Devotees walking towards the temple
Some of them are heading in the opposite direction, red marks of vermillion on their foreheads – they have had the blessings of the Baba.
Heading back... Content and Happy
After 45 minutes of climbing, we finally reach the hillock where a signage indicates that Yes! This is the place – the abode of the Bholenath – The Tungareshwar Temple. At this point, as if on divine cue, the till now silent clouds burst into peals of laughter and huge drops of rain come pouring down. Getting soaked at the grounds of Lord Shiva during Shravan, moments before meeting Him – We feel blessed to get a sanctified welcome.
The Tungareshwar Temple
The temple sits coyly nestled in the beautifully landscaped garden of nature giving it an ethereal look. At the dome, a trishul (trident) stands impressively against the skyline.
The trident on the temple dome
As we near the temple, I hear loud clanging of cymbals and ringing of temple bells. I try to rush in but when I enter the temple hall, the sound has ceased to exist. The prayers have concluded but a bright flame from the arti (prayer) lamp is still glowing in the room.
The prayer lamp glows in the temple
The temple room is small and devoid of any elaborate ornamentation, just the way Lord Shiva likes His abodes to be – plain, bare and simple. On either sides of the hall, priests indulge themselves in prayer ceremonies for themselves as well for the devotees.
Priests and pilgrims praying to the Lord
Photo frames of Lord Ganesha, Goddess Durga and Lord Ram hang from the ceiling wall. In the center of the temple is the Nandi Bull, the vehicle of Lord Shiva sitting steady as His guard. Above Him hangs a huge bell. I ring it to announce my arrival and stand in the modest queue in a bid to get His darshan.
Lord Shiva's vehicle - The Nandi Bull
Beautifully decorated in minimalistic works of colorful glass, the sanctum room is small and dark. A diminutive diya (lamp) light flickers in the near distance. In the center is the main ling – Lord Shiva - with a huge serpent (in brass) coiled around it. Flowers, bil patras (wood apple leaves dear to Lord Shiva) offered by the pilgrims are scattered around it and the fragrance of the incense sticks lingers in the room. A brass pot called dharanatra hangs above; water trickling down from an outlet at its base drop by drop over the ling.
The Shivling in the Tungareshwar Temple sanctum room
"He is most easily pleased of all Gods and grants you with all your wishes.Pour milk on Him, chant the Shiva mantra and pray sincerely."
The words of my mother play in my mind as I kneel down and let out a tiny flow of milk from my milk bag that I have carried all the way from my house. Then, I pause and take my moments to connect with the creator.
Out of the temple after the prayers, a board directs us towards the Jag Mata temple. Curious to see it, we climb a few fleets of stairs to reach the temple. At the entrance, stands a statue of ‘Happy Man’ and a few deities in orange colored stone are neatly arranged below it.
The entrance of the Jagmata temple
A torrent of water flows down from the mouth of the Nandi.
Water flows out of the mouth of the Nandi Bull
The temple itself is peaceful and has a lion statue, the vehicle of the Goddess in the centre of the hall right across the serene face of the mother in the sanctum area.
Lion - The vehicle of Ma Jagmata
In the sanctum sanctorum sits the Mother of the Universe, Maa Jagmata keeping an eye on the activities of all Her children.
Ma Durga as Ma Jagmata - The Mother of the Universe
Down again, some monkeys loiter around feeding on the chana and chips that the devouts offer.
Monkeys in the compound
A bit exhausted by now, we decide to catch a rickshaw on our way down,
Ride back home
Rs. 50 is what he asks...
The charge for taking us out from a sanctuary of peace and harmony back into the jungle of chaos and concrete.
Getting There and Distance: How to reach Tungareshwar
1. Best time to visit the place – Monsoons (June - September). Preferably early mornings if you wish to avoid the crowds.
2. From the Vasai station to the base of the hills: Share rickshaws plying from the Vasai Station (East) take you to the base of the hills – Sadanand Ashram. Fixed fare – Rs.25/person.
However, you can also hire it all for yourself in which case the charges go up but they are still negotiable – Rs. 125.
3. Climb from Ashram to the temple: Separate rickshaws have to be hired from here. Charges – Rs. 150 (negotiable). Cars are also allowed. My recommendation, dump these options and walk the distance, takes around 45 minutes and with all the scenic views around, you won’t really feel it.
4. Carry your own foodstuffs and water from home. There are hardly any shops during the trek. However, you can get things once you reach the top.
Related links and Other Lord Shiva temples covered in My Yatra diary -
